Cruising the Hawaiian Islands
Hawaii
The island of Hawaii, known as the big island, is the
logical starting place for a cruise through the island chain. This is
because it is the point of entry for most visitors sailing from the
mainland. Hilo is the port of entry, where one may go through the
quarantine and agricultural inspection. You may spend three weeks
there next to the Coast Guard dock. From there you may rent a car to
visit the major points of interest. Remember that the big island is
BIG. Plan on renting a car for a week. At 13,000 feet elevation,
Mauna Kea and Kiluea volcanos will be the high point of your tour.
Dress warmly, but don't get burned walking over the steam vents.
Before leaving the high country visit the Parker Ranch visitors
center on your way to the Kona or South Coast. Cruising the Kona
Coast in a sailboat is a sailor's
dream. Seas and breezes are very gentle.
Plan on a week to ten days of leisurely
sailing to enjoy untouched anchorages and vistas
attainable only by boat.
Channel Crossing
After your relaxing visit along the Kona Coast ,
prepare yourself for a wild roller coaster ride: The Alenuihaha
Channel. You may think of the channel crossings as a downhill run,
not unlike a trip down river rapids. While all Hawaiian Channel
crossings have the potential to terrify, and have
claimed many lives, they can be exhilarating for those who understand
and want this experience, and are prepared physically and mentally
for this challenge. Crossings are not for everyone, and for
most travelers I recommend flying to the next island and
meeting us at your destination. Flights between the islands are
very reasonable, averaging $50 to $75 per crossing.
Maui
For the first time visitor to Maui, there is
more to see than you can possibly fit into your brief stay.
Relax, and think of this as your first of many return visits to this
lovely destination. I can't say enough about the usual tourist
destinations such as the historic whaling city of Lahaina, Mt.
Haleakala which dominates the landscape of Maui, the road to Hana,
the Kaanapali coast.
You will return to these highlights with renewed
delight on every visit to Maui.
I would like to introduce you to
some experiences unknown to most and accessible only to the cruising
sailor. After crossing the Alenuihaha Channel from the Big
Island, our first destination is remote La Peruse Bay. We
anchor at Big Beach, a haven for sunbathers accessible only by boat
or jeep trail. During the winter months you will be living with
the Humpback whales, as they share the anchorage. You will also
be sharing this hidden paradise with the body surfers at Little
Beach. This idyllic location, a vista from which to view little
Molokini Island, forbidden Kahoolawi Island, private Lanai
island, and remote Molakai Island gives "body
surfing," a new connotation because most of your
fellow surfers will be in the nude.
From La Peruse Bay we spend the
next several days on a leisurely cruise across Maalaea Bay on our way
to historic whaling center Lahaina, the luxurious Kaanapali Coast,
and on to the the rugged Napili Coast.
Lanai
An enjoyable cruise across the Auau Channel from
Lahaina brings us to Lanai, the "Pineapple Isle."
This small privately owned island was inaccessible to tourism
until recent years. Operated as a pineapple plantation, the
owners decided to build two world class four star luxury hotels.
While the small population of Lanai once worked the pineapple
fields, they now maintain these two luxury hotels.
The key elements of Lanai are
luxury, quietude, pristine beaches, and surprisingly cool
pine forests reminiscent of the Carmel Highlands of the rugged Big
Sur Coast below Monterey, California. Access to this island is
limited, and as a cruiser aboard the Kentucky Princess you are able
to enjoy the benefits of this luxury without the $450.00 per day cost
as a hotel guest .
Molokai
A short cruise from either Lanai or Maui, the
"Friendly Isle" is one of my favorite destinations.
Bypassed completely by the mainstream tourist industry, Molakai's
only entry is the small port of kaunakakai, the Island's only
population center (the entire island population is about 6,000).
Kaunakakai is a small town in size and attitude. With one
small hotel, and a couple family restaurants, it is really fun to
walk about the main street, browse in the general store (which has
everything), and enjoy life at a slow pace. There is also a
small library where I obtained a library card on my first visit even
though I arrived by boat as a nonresident.
I hope I have conveyed the flavor
of this forgotten island. But there is another surprise
awaiting on our cruise along this coast: miles and miles of
untouched magnificent coastline accessible only by boat.
Oahu
Another roller coaster ride across the Kaiwi Channel
(known also as the "Molokai Express" because of its strong
winds and currents) brings us to Oahu, "The Gathering
Place." So much information is available about this
exciting tourist mecca that I would like to introduce you to the
unknown, hidden paradise away from the beaten track of Honolulu.
Yes, we will spend time in the Alawai Yacht Harbor, the entry to
Waikiki Beach, and Honolulu. Like the TransPac yacht race sailors
arriving from Newport Beach, California, we will be berthed as guests
of the Hawaii Yacht Club. We will have instant access to every
possible form of entertainment offered by this metropolis.
But when we are "partied
out" and ready for a quieter side of Oahu we will sail
around Diamond Head and cruise to Kaneohe Bay (see "Umbrella
Girls" on the front page). This very private reserve is
jealously guarded by the property owners along the shore. It is
only accessible to local residents and (you guessed it) sailors.
I won't tell you more because the photo "Umbrella Girls"
conveys my feeling about this hidden Hawaiian treasure.
Kauai
Of all the wonderful places to visit in Hawaii, my
most favorite destination is Kauai, the "Garden Isle."
After an 80 mile cruise across the Kauai Channel we arrive at little
Nawiliwili harbor. Watch out for the Menehune, the mischievous
little cousins of the leprechauns, because we will be anchored near
their homeland, the Menehune Fishpond. Also look out for those
wild chickens which wander everywhere along the roads of Kauai (One
could live for free on chicken. I asked residents why they
don't eat the chickens, but the thought never occurs to them.
You just get used to them always being there, like pigeons in
the park).
After a few days to relax and tour
the island, we are off for the adventure of a lifetime. We will
sail to the North Shore of Kauai, where the unparalleled Na Pali
Coast awaits us. We will anchor in Hanalei Bay, the inspiration
of the Peter, Paul, and Mary song, "Puff the Magic
Dragon." As you may recall, the words go something like
this: "Puff the Magic Dragon lived by the Sea. And
frolicked in the Autumn Mist in a Land called Hanalei." A
magical paradise, yes. And Peter, Paul, and Mary have done a better
job than I could to give you the flavor of Hanalei Bay, the entrance
to the Na Pali Coast. I have also included a few glimpses of
this coast in the "Photos" section.
Aloha
Hawaiians say they have no word for
good-bye: Their only greeting, "Aloha," emplores us to
embrace the spirit which life implies. I hope that you
have enjoyed your brief tour of the Hawaiian Island Chain, and
have a sense of the Aloha spirit, the hidden side of Hawaii
beyond the tourist facade. I will be looking forward to our
cruise together.
Captain Dan
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Captain Dan Collie
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